The soils and seas are alive!

Apologies yet again for the long break between this and the last blog, and as there's over two months news from the island to catch up with, I had better just get on with it, so here goes!

I: Of worms and men

Since it's the summer season (or was), the programme of events have taken over proceedings and this years slightly different approach to the programme is starting to pay off (or was!). Encouraging visiting experts to talk about their research on the island has been cited as an area for potential improvement, and of course this was fine with me becasue I do get very sick of my own voice as the season gets under way (the Essex in me does slip off the tongue on occasion), and its also nice to sit back and listen for a change.

Approaching the specialists hasn't really been that difficult, as most reseachers love to talk and enthuse others about their work on the island.This is especially true of Dr Kevin Butt from the University of Central Lancashire who has been investigating Rum earthworms since 1995 and I really do think he loves them! One of the main findings from Kevin's work is that earthworm communities have significantly incresesed in number where woodland had been re-established on the island.He has bags of enthusiasm for our little slippery friends and all who attended our organised field excursion around the village and evening lecture on the 21st May got heaps from it.These events were part of the much bigger Highland Soil Biodiversity Festival (part of Scottish Biodiversity week) which aimed at getting folk understanding the importance of soil.

Due to the bulk addition of mainland soil at Kinloch, the area supports 12 species of earhworms including this one, Lumbricus terrestris

And soil is pretty fundamental, so just a quick recap if you don't know why eathworms are so good for that muddy stuff under our feet; that very stuff we humans depend upon for our own continued survival I might add. So here are some facts we should all remember about earthworms as they are an integral part of that soil. 

Earthworms have been termed 'ecosytem engineers', because they change the structute of their environment by making both horizontal and vertical burrows.These create pores through which oxygen and water can enter and by which carbon dioxide can leave.Worms are also responsible for mixing soil layers and incorporating organic matter into it which becomes available to bacteria, fungi and plants, so assist greatly with decomposition.In fact, they're so important that the man himself Charles Darwin concluded [that], ''It may be doubted if there are other animals which have played such an important part in the history of the world as these lowly organised creatures.''

Worm-men!
Dr Kevin Butt and Dr Chris Lowe from the University of Central Lancashire stunning worms at the soil surface.Please note that no worms were harmed during the making of this science.   

A worm in the hand is worth two in the bush

Other visiting specialists over the summer included Jim Blair from the Lochaber Geopark who kindly conducted a geology walk and talk over the 18th-20th June, and all who attended appreciated an extra insight into Rum's geological past.The talk was pretty packed out, but unfortunately few took the opportunity to accompany Jim up Coire Dubh during the day.I think that maybe an open-to-all indoor geology workshop may be the answer to this next season, and will be definitely worth trying ..bring the mountain to Mohamed so to speak.

Lochaber Geopark's Jim Blair

II: The crazy summer of cetaceans

As you would expect from the height of summer, Cetaceans (whales and dolphins) and seabirds have been much in evidence around the waters off the island from about the end of May onwards. Consequently, there's been much interest in the weekly two hour boat trip to the Isle of Soay aboard the MV Sheerwater this season (especially when it was free for a while).

No dolphins that day, but the 'Goddards' have been sticking with it.

A special mention to the 'Goddards', who have been on every Thursday trip to Soay come rain or shine for the entire summer.Sometimes they see a kittiwake or two, and sometimes heaps of exciting stuff (not to say that kittiwakes aren't exciting too).Anyhoo, the moral of this story is that you just never know what will be about and when, so their additude has been refreshing, and they are pleased with whatever they see.Afterall, actually seeing someting wild is a privalage that doesn't happen instanly like it does on the telly, you have to put in the hours, and even then, you may only get a glimpse.So full respect for sticking with it! As we shall see, putting in the hours does pay dividends.Check out the clip underneath when they actually do spot a pod of short-beaked common dolphins (please turn your head sideways to view, I cant work out how to correct this...the internet is a new invention and wasn't around when I went to school back in the 1980's).

 I have also been trying out our larger supply vessel (the MV Loch Nevis) for its suitability for wildlife watching (as if I hadn't already), as a near perfect opportunity arose after contacting the organisers of the first Wild Locharber Festival.They are aiming to promote wildlife and eco-tourism in this under valued area of the Highlands.All in all, it was a good first taste and a great way to scope out something special for next year when the whole event is expected to gather momentum.2012 events were all organised very quickly, as the funding package was only finalised a month before! The day was a bit of a marathon however, as I was on board for an epic ten hours seawatch and irradiated to a cinder.On the cetacean front only a few harbour porpoise were seen all day, but heaps of manx shearwaters and other seabirds were on hand to connect folk with our fantastic marine environment, so job done.Here are some of the better photos.

The approaching MV Loch Nevis on the morning of the marathon seawatch.

Rafting manxies off Cave's Bay.

Punters on the look out..

Harbour seals, Eigg.

Sanday light

Manx shearwater Puffinus puffinus

Grey seal, Malliag Harbour.

Common seal with pup off Eigg

Due to the warmer sea surface temperatures and abundant plankton later on into July, the situation onboard the MV Sheerwater was totally different regarding cetacean abundance.Short-beaked common dolphins (the Italians of the dolphin world...they breech and show off quite a bit) were literally everywhere and amazed dozens of people over the last few months. An aggregation of about c.1000 individuals was first noted around the Small Isles in early June, and since then this 'super pod' divided into various smaller groups. The highlights on the Thurday Soay trip included c.60 between Arisaig and Eigg on the 19th June, and c.100 between Rum and Soay on June 21st.Here is some of the action in pictures.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Enthusing the young about Rum's marine environment..this is what it's all about.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: waiting and watching for the blow?

Aboard MV Sheerwater: The Welsh spoil another potentially good photo opportunity!

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Red-throated diver Gavia stellata.A typical flight silhouette with the neck and head lowered.The feet projection beyond the tail is less obvious than on other divers and are perceived to be an extension of the tail.  

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Atlantic puffin Fratercula arctica

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Common guilemots

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Ronnie Dyer, skipper of MV Sheerwater

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Rafting manx shearwaters Puffinus puffinus.

During the breeding season Manxies assemble at sea in the late afternoon prior to going ashore once night has fallen.Formed between one and ten kilometres from the colony, these impressive assemblages, called rafts, can number thousands of birds.For example, off Caves' Bay, rafts may exceed ten thousand birds.Given that Manxies arrive in these rafts well before sunset, and therefore well before feeding is likely to be curtailed, biologists wonder whether participation in rafts could in some way benefit the birds, but the answer to this question is simply not known.  

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Rafting manxies, off Rum, July 2012.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Adult manx shearwater, off Rum, July 2012.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: A very close minke whale, off Soay, July 2012 (photo Ian Bolas)

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Harbour porpoise Phocoena phocoena and manxie, off Soay, July 2012.Found only in the North Atlantic and North Pacific Oceans, this small cetacean measures up to 1.9 metres and has a distinctive short, long based triangular dorsal fin.

It has to be said that the gems of the summer have been the Short-beaked common dolphins which are found throughout the northern Atlantic and most of the Pacific region.The best way to identify the species is by their behaviour, as they are usullay in large boisterous schools and can be aerially acrobatic, with flipper slapping, bow riding, breaching and sometimes somersaulting, and we've certainly been privy to most of this during the summer!Another distinguishing characteristic is the hourglass pattern on their sides.  

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Swimming almost as one organism, short-beaked common dolphins Delphinus delphis,  off Eigg, June 2012.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Short-beaked common dolphins

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Small pod of short-beaked common dolphins and distant manxie raft, off Eigg, June 2012.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Short-beaked common dolphin, off Eigg, June 2012.

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Single short-beaked common dolphin (photo Daniel Campbell).

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Short-beaked common dolphins (photo Daniel Campbell)

Aboard MV Sheerwater: All skuas are pirates, and none is better equipped for the part than the great skua or bonxie (meaning bully in old Norse).This bugger is not only sturdily built, aggressive and bullying, but is also the largest of the skuas, so well able to rob really large birds of their latest meals.

A Aboard MV Sheerwater: The bonxies favourite victim is the gannet.It seizes any unwary bird by the wingtip, so making it stall and fall into the sea.The gannet then disgorges its food and the spoils are snapped up (photo: Ian Sargent).   

Aboard MV Sheerwater: Safe as long as you're not carrying fish, an adult gannet

Aboard MV Sheerwater: a mean as bonxie!

Aboard the Isle of Sanday: Great skua or bonxie on Sanday..even meaner when you're walking through their terrestrial territory.

Recent sightings

Not really that recent, but still recent enough anyway....

A good late spring record of a long-eared owl at the Harris tree plot on May 22nd was a welcome change for some.2 adult orcas off Muck on the 25th June, with 5 seen again off Muck on the July 4th, also 4 bottle-nosed dolphins off Eigg that day. Basking sharks have been a wee bit more numerous this season, but still only a handful of records for Rum including singles in Loch Scresort on the 13th and 14th July,and a whopping 5 off Kilmory on July 21st. Our sea eagles failed this season, but 2 pairs of goldies were successful fledging a chick a piece.Other breeding successes include 1 pair of greenshanks, short-eared owl, hen harrier, merlin and at least 10 pairs of red-throated divers.Arctic terns did well too, with over 10 pairs nesting at Kilmory. Other notables include a possible breeding spotted flycatcher, which was seen on numerous occasions around the village in May, June and early July (perhaps breeding due to the warmer dryer conditions and abundant large insect life, which is perhaps due to the new wild flower meadow around the castle!?).Autumn migration is now underway, with a flock of 50+ twite at Harris on the 5th August and two juvenile dotterels on Barkeval on the 18th August.

Adult spotted flycatcher, Kinloch, June 2012.

As usual, some of the weather in pictures......

Oh, and I will be more regular from now on I promise (with the ranger blogs that is), so see you soon with some more Rum news and ting soon!

Big moon over Scresort

Every cloud.....

Our latest goodies..

Sorry for the lack of updates over the last few weeks or so... it's been pretty manic on here lately with plenty to record and organise; for the island, its definitely the busiest time of the year.And with such fine weather dominating things for a change, I've been out most days with the camera.So hence this massive blog with heaps to talk about, and illustrated with heaps of photos too...here we go, take a deep breath!

The end of April saw a dusting of redwings around the island, including a single in Kinloch (a singing male) from the 20th to the 23rd.In fact, we may even get a breeding record this year, as a pair are still knocking around the village (last seen on May 10th). A pair of linnets have been seen regularly in Kinloch since early April also, so there must be a favourable chance of a breeding record this season too.The first grasshopper warbler of the year was reeling around Lea Cottage on Saturday 21st April, with one also holding territory in the walled garden since about the 23rd.Another has been heard along the upper road between the start of the Dibidil track and Bay View on several occasions up to May 10th.

Harris had the first cuckoo of the year on the 23rd April, but has also played host to quite a large flock of golden plover up on the raised beach area this spring, with 23 being counted on April 24th. Presumably these are migrants stopping off on their way north, or perhaps a second batch of breeders waiting their chance in Rum's ploverly gene pool.

Two of our golden plovers

Twenty three of our golden plovers

Short-eared owl must be breeding again this spring, as they keep cropping up at various places around the island.One was reported from Glen Shellesder on the 23rd April along with a single bird at Harris on the 3rd of May. 8 snow buntings and 2 juvenile dippers were reported from Hallival on the 23rd April, and a single great northern diver and a lone cormorant (annual but still a rare occurrence on the island) were both in Loch Scresort on the 25th April, and 7 red-throated divers were noisily displaying on the 27th April. The 27th also saw the first of this seasons blackcaps returning, with several males now singing in the village. A pair of common buzzards have been seen on various occasions over the village and seem to be holding territory out in the North of the island.

Flying high in blue sky over the Community Hall...a common buzzard

Despite the fact that otters are quite secretive at this time of year, several have still been spotted around the island, with reports of singles at Cave's Bay on the 29th April & 19th May, Kilmory on May 4th, and a very nice male observed at Rubha na Roinne on the 13th May.

An awesome male ring ouzel at Harris on the 28th April was a welcome surprise. This species is very much like a blackbird, but has a white crescent on its breast (see picture below).It is a scarce breeder on Rum that usually frequents higher areas of the island where it will nest in all probably.This individual was apparently just in from its wintering grounds around the Mediterranean and North Africa, as I initially spotted it in the tree plot. We're not entirely sure how many breed on the island, but there's a couple of pairs at least...a future project for me perhaps, but both the words needle and haystack immediately spring to mind? Sadly the species has declined so much since the 1970's, that it is now included on the UK 'Red List', so definitely a worthwhile project.

Adult male ring ouzel, Harris.
Unlike its close relative the blackbird, ring ouzels are usually wary and wild,
so I couldn't get a closer photo.

The cuckoos have arrived from their wintering grounds in equatorial Africa (so it must be summer), and many have been very obvious at various places around the island.They're usually shy, but not at this time of year; this pair at Harris were displaying and frolicking about all over the Harris tree plot on the 28th April. Lots of most excellent acrobatics with the male chasing the female or vice verca!The male was giving off the species infamous call, but the female gives off a rapid bubbling which always reminds me of a small monkey. Its weird anyway, and not very bird-like.

Acrobatic cuckoo action

Frolicking cuckoo action

As I'm talking cuckoo....the cuckoo flower is in full petal out around Kinloch Glen and village environs at the moment.This is a pretty springtime flower and is called the cuckooo flower because it blooms for the most part in April and May, when the cuckoo begins to call.

Cuckoo flower Cardamine pratensis

As the end of April and early May has been awesome weather wise, I finally took the opportunity to use my spring traps for the first time this season, and have been catching and ringing plenty of wheatears down at Harris (under BTO licence of course).The birds pictured below are males as they have the classic highwayman's mask.You can see this species throughout much of the island in the summer months, but as there's plenty of short grass both at Harris and Kilmory, these areas are especially good.In fact, it's quite rare to see them around Kinloch village, so the four that turned up on the shore near Ivy Cottage after the gales on May 14th were a welcome village change.

Male wheatear

Male wheater, Harris 29th April

Mid May is without doubt the best time of the year to observe skua passage around the west coast of Scotland, so as May 13th was forecast to have gale force south westerlies with rain, I decided to get out to Rubha na Roinne on Rum's east coast for a five hour seawatch, and try to see what was passing through. Despite finding a great bit of shelter, I got pretty wet and didn't really see anything of note, as there was little moving.BUT you have to try these things as undoubtedly birds will be blown into our inshore waters.If only we had had some of the magic 417 long-tailed skuas or a trickle of the 172 pomerine skuas reported off North Uist that day....I'm forever the eternal optimist and we will one spring!!

As the MV Sheerwater is now sailing regularly from Arisaig on the summer timetable, the usual Thursday Ranger led boat trip to Soay is now being advertised to our visiting public (check out the website).The first trip on the May 3rd wasn't disappointing, as we had plenty of close manx shearwatters, two nice bonxies, 2 red-throated divers, kittiwakes and gannets galore (see pics below).

I haven't personally spotted any cetaceans yet on the trip (which is now into its third week), but  things are picking up on the marine front with a scattering of minke whales (2 in the outer Loch Scresort area, 1 off Sleat, 1 off Eigg) and 100 + short-beaked common dolphins have been observed around The Small Isles from May 1st. Basking sharks are also back on the menu so to speak, and a bumper season has been predicted by the scientific community (would be great to know how they work this out eh).Sean spotted one off the east of Rum on the May 3rd and up to five have been seen around Tiree on May 8th, so they're on their way.We should now start to see many around the coast as we get into June. Oh and before I forget, also 12+ harbour porpoise inbetween Arisaig and Eigg on May 8th.

THE MV Sheerwater..the first of many wildlife watching trips to Soay

Soay bound on the Sheerwater...

The great skua or bonxie as its now commonly known, is the old Norse word for the species.
This literally translates as the bully of the sea, because like all skua species, the bonxie attacks other birds (usually gannets) for their food. Even the big gulls get twitchy when these guys are lurking about!

Bonxietastic views! Our usual pair at Kilmory are now on territory..beware!

Adult gannet

Rum's favourite species

Talking of our old favourites, an exciting and very valuable time was had by students on the Ecology and Field Studies course from the University of Edinburgh, when we undertook a night time shearwater colony expedition up to Hallival on the 30th April. Professor Pete (Higgins) has been taking students from all over the world up to the sub-colony for many years, but doesn't usually go via the shearwater research hut and the North East face, so my rangering services were appreciated.As the island lends itself so well to outdoor learning experiences such as this, we should really be organising more of this kind of thing in the future, i.e.adventure education.All aspects worked well, as noise and light disturbance was managed effectively.A trial run perhaps...watch this space.

Up at the colony.
Environmental learning outdoors at its very best

I'm just going with the flow here, so apologies for jumping from one subject to another!

Now plants!

Everything is growing so fast and I cant keep up with it, but here are some of the best of the last few weeks......

Common milkwort Polygala vulgaris

Marsh marigold Caltha palustris

Common cottongrass Eriophorum angustifolium

Wood sorrel Oxalis acetosella 

The blue bell wood

Other recent wildlife includes a single collard dove (at Tattie House) and a sand martin in the castle fields both on May 10th, and a single adult summer great northern diver seen on May 10th and 15th in Loch Scresort.Both sedge warbler and whitethroat turned up last week from the 14th at least. The first 'commic' tern of the year was on May 6th off Arisaig, and at last one confirmed arctic tern in loch scresort yesterday (May19th). Good news on our breeding hen harriers with conformation of a breeding pair at the usual place (they've got five eggs this season).Swallows are back at full strength with birds using the Byre Building and more recently at the Visitor Centre from May10th at least (lots of swallow droppings very evident from that date...defo going to have to get that mop and bucket out again this summer) and two whimbrel off Rubha na Roinne on May 17th heading north. 

Over the last few weeks or so most of our red deer have been casting (or dropping) their antlers (well the males that is) and I've noticed many visitors leaving the island with an antler souvenir attached to their backpacks.If they're found in either Glen Shellesder or Kilmory, the Kilmory Deer Project are asking that you hand them in so that important information can be gained.

Researcher Martyn Baker will be very busy down at Kilmory over the next few weeks, as this is the peak calving period when many hinds will be literally dropping their little bundles of munching joy into the long grass or heather.The calving team that will be wrestling these new borns will be at full strength next week, when even more volunteer deer catchers and spotters arrive.

Red deer..single sex groups at the moment.
The stags pictured here at Harris are dropping antlers, whilst the hinds are dropping young!  

We've had the usual run of visiting ships and cruise liners of late with the Stockholm, Polar Quest and Ocean Nova popping in for visits (the Stockholm being in 3 times this spring already).The Ocean Nova i.e., Excursions Ltd, booked my services for a guided walk up Kinloch Glen (for 22!) on May 15th. Great stuff, but how can we persuade more passengers to step away from the castle for once?

The Stockholm

The Polar Quest

The Ocean Nova

And Rumics (the folk of Rum) celebrated 3 years of community ownership on Friday 11th May with a ceilidh, BBQ and much swaying, some more than others anyway.Neil, I must get a pair of those magnetic boots you wear, they keep you amazingly vertical.

Happy Rumics at the ceilidh

Apart from the odd day, the weather and the light has been absolutely awesome lately, so as usual, some recent weather and landscapes from the island in pictures (there's quite a few sorry, but it's been so nice!).

Bagh na h-Uamha

A mid afternoon moon...could be anywhere, but it is Rum.

Cave's Bay or Bagh na h-Uamha...so much better without a fish farm!

Just like the Mediterranean...Coll from Harris.

Evening views out east....Loch Scresort 

The tree plot of migrant dreams (Harris).

The pre-clearance village, Harris

Harris beach

Front road evening sun

Cooling off...afternoon evaporation on Hallival

Smokin! Morning helm cloud on Hallival.

 I sometimes wonder whether I'm becoming a bit of a Richard Dreyfuss from Close Encounters (of the Third Kind) , ie a wee bit obsessive over a mountain and its shape.There is something very satisfying about Hallival however, but I haven't resorted to making mash potato models out of my dinner or huge clay ones in the living room.
Well not yet anyway...there's plenty of time to go completely bonkers in the winter.    

REDRUM!

Another satisfying shape....Eigg from Loch Scresort